Some time in the next year or so, I will pull my finger out and actually fit the water injection stuff to my car. Maybe.

I've got a Unichip so I guess I could run methanol and two ignition maps, swithching between them if the WI systems falls over or empties. But I dont want to do that. My plan is to run a basic system for cooling only i.e. no methanol.

In which case, running the DDS3 seems a bit overkill. Any information it's going to give me is really of no interest at all and with me lacking in suitable locations for more gauges I'm thinking it might have to either remain in storage or I can sell it on - no idea even how much it's worth?

Does anyone want to agree/disagree/call me names etc?

For best cooling, I seem to recall the nozzle should be placed further away from the TB, probably just after the intercooler?

I was like that too, I had a Unichip that had never been installed/mapped properly and in the end I thought s0d it, I'll just pay someone to fit it so Flea put it all in before my recent Live Map. However I did install the water tank (yeah, really difficult ) and the pressure switch and ran the DDS3 wiring through from the passenger compartment. I needed to install a pressure switch for the AVC-R so I did those at the same time, and after Flea's fitting I just need to go around and make the install a bit more subtle.

I went for water/methanol injection and it is mapped for that (325bhp at 1.4bar on a GT28R) with water injection coming in at 1bar, and on the AVC-R Flea set up the two channels at 1.2 bar and 1.4bar (with off being around 1.0 bar )

What the DDS3 gives you is yet another paranoia gauge but it does show when there is flow through the DDS3 sensor, it shows when the pressure switch activates, and shows the actual flow (albeit only 2 bars of the 8 or so LED's, but you can change the scale so that you get more lights) and shows if the tank level is too low. I was disappointed that the "boost" (on/off) button does nothing (in my setup) apart from power up the guage: the injection still carries on regardless (if level OK) of whether the DDS3 is on or not. Indeed the standard 1S kit (you have 1S, right?) comes with a couple of LED's IIRC (or you can add them) to show "tank level low" and "pressure switch active" (but not necessarily any flow).

Without the DDS3 there's no way to make 100% sure that you have flow, apart from noticing the drop in inlet temp (if you have a widget for example).

But I'm going to change the DDS3 wiring so that the on/off button actually switches the whole aquamist system on/off, instead of using the button to activate some other boost setting which it what it's designed for.

As for guage locations, I did have it in one of the two A pillar pods, with the boost gauge in a separate pod under the dash, but I've now put the wideband lambda gauage down below the dash and reinstated the boost gauge up top. How many other gauges do you have?

I got Flea to install the injector in the metal pipe between the two hoses that connect the FMIC outlet to the plastic pipe alongside the battery rather than in the plastic pipe itself which is another possible location.

The DDS3 seems to be discontinued but they do come up on eBay every once in a while, that's where mine came from.

Cheers Dave.

Yes, just the standard 1s kit (if I can find all the bits for it). It sounds like it'd be useful if it mattered whether the WI system was functioning or not, but as I'll only be using it to help keep inlet temps down then it's probably more than I require.

I am planning (well hoping is a more accurate term) that I'll manage to set things up such that if the inlet temps reach 'X' degrees then it'll kill the boost by cutting power to the apexi - i.e. switch back to base boost.

I've already got two gauges in the twin pillar pod, an avcr and a widget so not a lot of options. I could locate it somewhere, but not such that I would be able to monitor it very closely - again kind of defeats the purpose.

@ Dave, that's odd, as my WI will not work unless the DDS3 gauge is turned on ( all tested ).

The wiring is simple enuf, however I did notice that their circuit board is tricky, so you need to test the circuit.

Best way was to disconnect the press switch with the system off, it shouldn't work, with the gauge turned on, the WI should fire up

cheers

@Taz, yes I know the wiring is simple enough, but with all the other bits I wanted doing, it was easier to get Flea to do it at the same time. There are various versions of the DDS3 circuit board and I did test it by pulling off a lead from the pressure switch and it made no difference, maybe there are too many direct +12V feeds coming from the battery rather than via the circuit board? I've also noticed diffeent versions of the 1S wiring. I've been on to Richard at Aquamist and I'm still waiting for a confirmation of a wiring scheme.

@mattB, what are the two guages you have in the A pillar pod? And could you live with one of them being elsewhere (eg: just to left of steering wheel, in clock position, in the dash strip or in a pod under the dash (where I've put the wideband gauge)

I'll have a wideband and a temp gauge on the pillar. Wideband is getting a switch somewhere in the system so I can switch it off on longer journeys. Might do the same with the temp gauge.

On balance, I think the temp gauge will be more useful than the DDS3.

Yeah.. IMO the DDS3 is only really worthwhile if you're using it with methanol and reliant on it working for more power.

Buy the AEM kit. Cheaper and more parts for your money.