Hi guys,im a newbie here and im from Malaysia. I bought a coupe around year 2010 and i recently blew my engine due to mechanic negligence. now i finally got my hands on a second hand engine with i was told is about 80k Km on it.

Previously before my engine blew up im runing at 1.4 bar on a hybrid turbo, GTECchip, straight flow downpipe, manual boost controller. not sure how much BHP is there before i could do a dyno on it. but was told by people is roughly around 260 BHP by the feel.

Now my question is when i fit my new engine on it, i would still be runing a hybrid turbo , straight flow downpipe, a K&N cone air intake filter, manual boost controller, a new Gtec Chip which i just ordered by has not arrive yet(was told that it will be ordered from UK which its tune will be done to fit what i have fitted on the car).

What numbers would i be looking at? ill be running in the engine at 1 bar first but would be boosting it to 1.2 and eventually 1.4 if its possible. Also, what else can i do to make sure that its a safe tune and wont blow up again.

I wish i can get around 260bhp ish or even more if possible but only if its reliable.

Thanks,

KC

get it live mapped and don't run the car at 1.4 bar of boost on a gtec 1 .

Hasn't flea 'remote mapped' coupes for people overseas? Sending him dyno print outs and him sending a chip through the post?

if you have not a clear clue of your damage ,is not a new chip the solution

probably you run too stoich, not enough fuel
like said above a live map with EGT and lambda is the way to go

i see. my mechanic felt that the car is running to lean. so ill be installing a FPR on it

What does a live map with EGT and lambda means? sorry. new to these terms.

Is it bad to run at 1.4 with gtec 1 or its just not possible and not recommended?

the gtec is only good up to 1.2bar anything after that and your in the unknown , you should also get the fueling checked on a rolling road when you have installed a gtec 1 chip just to make sure everthing is ok with the fueling .

Welcome

EGT is exhaust gas temperature probe and the lambda is the sensor in the exhaust which monitors oxygen content (I think).

A live map is a remap suited to you car, rather than a generic map. GTECs are good for 1.2 bar and a good way to get more power but a live map is the most efficient way of getting power from your setup.

Flea from FC Performance has done remote mapping for people outside the UK with great success, so if you are interested contact him in the traders section.

If you have a hybrid turbo with a proper map you should make at least 260bhp. A wider exhaust will also help; the standard 2.25" is quite restrictive. If you are looking for more, check the Tuning Knowledge at the top of this section. Uprated clutch, FMIC, etc., and remember the fact that if it goes it must be able to stop!!

Good luck,

Tim

thank alot guys. i just checked with my mechanic, apparently he told me it isnt a gtec one or so. its just gtec but designed to go with what i installed? so i presume it would be a live map? hopefully.



How do i do a check on the fpr on a runing road?

assuming it im runing my setup with gtec 1, what bhp am i looking at?



im still using the stock exhaust as it sounds great still, fizzles anbd pops.would anything after 260 on stock engine with hybrid turbo be safe? haha, the first thing i did to it is upgrade the brake lines and runing mintek pads. stopping power is pretty darn harsh.

also my current stock disc warps and from what i read, its a norm for this car. so therefore im thinking of changing front and back but what brand should i go for?
I found one on ebay which is Mtec? is it good? the people over here are recommending tarox? but its bloody expensive. around 3k in my currency. roughly 600ish pounds?

any recommendation?

there's a reason for this, before to think tuning
you have to solve the problem, in my opinion

rebuild the engine with stock ecu
then check the whole if is ok

after the check get a live map session
with EGT and lamda under control and set everything
within safety limits ,if you want to go beyond
you need all the trick to make it possible (Fmic, aquamist..)

Mtec discs are fine for the power level you are at. Check the handling section of the forum - there will be talk about discs and pads in there.

The generally accepted "safe" level for the standard engine is around 320bhp with less than 300 lb/ft. Some cars are able to run more than this power level.

Be sure to run supporting modifications if you want 280bhp+ for example a larger front mounted intercooler is a must.

You can get different sizes of hybrids and this thread highlights the differences.

I see now the problem is i haven't got the faintest idea of what size my hybrid is as when i first send it to my mechanic to convert it, he just told me it is now a hybrid, at that point i barely even understood what he meant. all i know is that its still using the original housing but hybrid. it does spool faster though

KKC once you get the engine all sorted, drive it to the nearest dyno machine for a health check. It will record your fuelling figures on top of the engine's power and torque figures.

I have to wonder which mechanic you're sending it to. How can he know its running lean? And what do u mean (or the mechanic, rather) by installing an FPR? The car already has one.

To my knowledge, no one does a live map for coupes in Malaysia. Most of us down here either go for a gtech route or distance mapping by Flea of FC Performance in the UK.

thanks for the info.

will do it soon once its up and ready.

i installed a controller that tells the A/F ratio. that way i guess. yea it does but it guess not sufficient? stock i was told is 3 bar? he wants to put it to 3.5 bar.

yea he says its a gtec but it will be design for my car specifically? thats what i was told ...

also guys btw im getting a set of tarox disc front and rear for my car. is it good? better than brembo and so on?

how much is it in uk for a set of front and back with pads?

i think its the G88 type

correction. its a F2000 with either 112 or 114 pads