Hi folks, I own ( for those that don't know 😜) Daves DLT old coupe, looking at starting to do track days in it, looking for any recommendations for camber and general setup, been round track in a standard coupe and it was terrible so hoping this ones a lot better even as it stands 😃

Currently has fcss welded subframe, polybushed, front strutbrace,uprated rear arb and coilovers,

I found his old advert. Do you still use KW coilovers?

Brakes - bloody good ones!

It already sounds like a pretty good starting point - you should get everything measured first, especially camber - let us know what the geo settings are, and we should be able to give you some pointers

As Nigel says brakes are the most important for your beast.

I'm not sure what boost settings you have? 3 different ones maybe.

If you have a quaiffe it will help to stop spin up coming out of corners but I would say a low boost would be needed. My toyo 888s spin up in second gear on a dry track with only about 320hp.

If you have not been on track before then a few lessons would help.

High power fwd can catch a few out at times.

I would love to drive your beast on track. Good luck with it.

I make my Coupe for a road use only, but since 2013 i'm using it only for trackdays and for our national endurance race championship.
This is not advice for you, it's only my setup and personal conclusions:
- Camber bolts
- wider tyres as possible in front, in my case 235\40\17 front and 245\40\17 rear - can fit 245 in front, but still don't want to grind the fender
- 26mm anti-roll bar in front, redrilled another hole on it, for more stiffness. Had uprated rear ARB but IMHO standard one is OK.....(have intention to try with rear ARB disconnected)
- Softer front springs than OE. Coilovered.
- 1mm toe-out for slow track, 0.2 - 0.3mm for fast track.
I really wish to have time to make the rear end toe-adjustable, because now rear end is limiting factor in corner.
Again - as i said - this works for me, and i don't know if it will works for you.

Ferrarist, are you sure that is what you meant not the other way round? Otherwise, this will open a whole new discussing (IMHO). I cannot see how soft rear ARB or removing it completely would help cornering. It is the other way around on a Coupe and it's been said many times before that this is the single best possible mod - stiffer ARB.

Yes, i'm sure......
I don't know why only stiffer rear ARB is considered as "best possible mod".....Coupe suffers front understeer - stiffer rear ARB only will make things worse. And there is many suspension books that states principle like this.
My experience.....MY EXPERIENCE - i tried:
Standard 22mm front ARB, Whiteline rear: More understeer
26mm Eibach front ARB from my trackday Alfa 156(fitted via plate to the shock Lancia Lybra arb style), Whiteline rear - little bit more stable front and rear end - neutral balanced car - better laptimes than previous setup
26mm front ARB with standard rear ARB - little bit more understeer, but improved laptime.....i was very suspicious about this result and make few days with this setup - driver's feeling sometimes may be wrong, but the race chrono - never.
Then i redrilled another hole on the front ARB, nothing changed rear - same feel, lit-t-t-tle bit more speed in the corner.
Same ARB's but less stiffer springs in front - massive difference - car pitches more, braking improves due more weight shifts to the front, better turn-in and mid-corner as well.......bit of understeer on the exit, but it can be cured with different driving style.
All that was done with same tyres and pressures.
Again - my experience. I designed below Locost all by my self, using same principle - stiffer front ARB, softer springs as possible - no rear ARB - and it works fine.

When I spoke to one guy that has been engineer in WTCC about ARB's, his opinion was that at FWD with stock drivetrain/suspension (we can call coilovers and poly's stock) it is better to have thinner rear ARB. Car have to tilt at rear end to have more grip at front and rear end will follow the line.
I'm sorry but I don't know exactly how to explain, I'm not a proffesional

He also mentioned one video that most of us seen, red Astra at hillclimb race:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FxrWTZjtCXo

That will be because its RWD - the Coupe is very different

Its generally accepted that on a FWD car, uprating the rear ARB (or softening the front) will reduce understeer and promote better turn-in

Don't go too far though, as it can make the car tail-happy

I still maintain that the 23mm rear ARB was the single best handling mod I've fitted in 15 years of Coupe ownership

Generally ARB have to deal with weight shifted from one side to another - FWD or RWD matters, but little......and only in corner exit....
In the beginning my 156's was front engined, FWD.....then i mid-engined it, RWD'd......It had awful weight in front end when FWD, almost 47 to 53% balance when RWD.....
Front ARB 26, rear 18, when RWD i simply removed the rear ARB, and soften front springs......
Same things happen.....
I don't want to start a conversation, there is a lot of stuff written about it.....

Hi thanks for the feedback, car still running kW coilovers and all parts as per advert, quaife is next on the cards after shelling out for turbo re build this week!!

Was thinking adjustable top mounts, I can report back ASAP regarding wheel alignment.

As for brakes I have a good setup in mind, as recommended by a well known forum member, this I'll be implementing ASAP.

As for tuition, I've been going to track days for years so feeling pretty confident, just want the best from the car.

Yeah the boost is controlled by a three stage switch,low or medium is all I'll use!!

Exactly - to help handling, you either firm up the ARB on the non-driven axle, or soften the ARB (or remove it) on the driven axle

I'd forgotten your Alfa is RWD, so for a Coupe, we need to be doing the opposite of what you've done on your 156 and Locost

Nigel, I think that he is talking about a Coupe. Anyways, I know that stiffening my rear ended significantly helped reducing understeer so I am with you on this.

1.5 to 2 degrees negative camber on the front should improve front end grip significantly. The precise amount would be determined by the wheel rate.

The most useful mod for quick setup change would be an adjustable rear anti-rollbar. Really quick to change and very handy in variable weather conditions.

Adjustable coilovers are great if you can afford them.

Watch your tyre pressures too. I destroyed a set of yoko AO48s in one session because they got hot,air expanded causing tyres to crown. Ruined in no time.

Don't be tempted to go too low on ride height. Can ruin roll centre and create masses of understeer. If lower arms are parallel to ground that's as low as you should go.

Be prepared to experiment, focus on balance and forget lap time unless you are consistent to within a few tenths.

What's your thoughts on tyre pressure?
I'm getting a lot of shoulder wear on NSF tyre at knockhill (mainly right handers)

Sounds like you need more negative camber or camber control, I.e stiffness. Obviously if you go too stiff up front you'll end up with loads of understeer. Not sure tyres pressure is going to help much. Maybe try a touch more pressure.

Outer shoulder wear is going to be down to one or both of two things

1) The car is rolling, causing positive camber on the outside wheel when cornering hard

2) The car is understeering, causing the front end to slide

To be fair, my car is fairly well set up suspension-wise and I still destroyed the outer shoulder of my NSF tyre in a single day at Bruntingthorpe (approx 30 laps, but there was one long right hander, which I was taking at 100+ while hard on the power - this did all the damage)

I think its just a consequence of running road-based geometry on a (very) front-heavy FWD car

Agree with point 1, but not sure about point 2. It's not understeer itself causing outer shoulder wear, it's the camber at that time when the understeer is occurring. For example if you were running 10 degrees negative camber on the front (ok you wouldn't run that much) when the car understeered you would be wearing the inner shoulder because with that much negative camber the outer shoulder would never be in contact with the tarmac.

Agreed, but on the camber that any Coupe will run, the outside edge of the tyre will be taking a hammering if the tyre is sliding due to understeer

Sure. I get you. Was just being my usual pedantic self.

Guess it's worth mention tyre pressure and different slip angles(on different tyres) may both be responsible for outer shoulder wear when combined wrongly.....Camber changes during roll, but since i never saw COupe that rolls more than 4-8 degrees(and that can not cause always same degree camber change.)

I think I see what you're getting at... More pressure or stronger sidewalls/lower profile equals less slip angle so that would mean less shoulder wear.