New Turbo

Greetings.

Having put aside the coupé paranoia from which I have been afflicted for some time, I decided to increase the power a little.

I had a good opportunity in my hands and purchased the gtr2560 model (n. 420124 on the site) from turboparts.

I have many of the necessary support modifications installed for some time now.

Which includes:
FMIC.
SIP.
K&N cone filter.
70mm downpipe.
200 cell magnaflow catalyst.
Central straight Ragazzon.
Terminal Ragazzon.
Forge fmdvspltr drain valve set to recirculation.
Manual Boost Controller.
GTEC 2 chip.
I only use Petrol 98+ additive for complete cleaning of the entire injection system.
Turbo boost pressure gauge installed.

The only modification not yet carried out is a 255l Valbro pump, which I will install later if necessary.

I don't think I have any fears with these combinations and I won't push more than 1.2/1.3 bar.

I would like to ask you some questions,

1. I have always thought that a gasket is needed between the turbo and manifolds, I currently have one now.
but when I install the new turbo I want to be sure if I put one in, right? Even in the turbokit purchased there is one but, I read in the forum that it should not be used.

2. The new turbo is not aligned with the oil/water pipes and the cold side is also not aligned, I will have to loosen the bolts holding the core and rotate it, would you know how many nm to apply to tighten it?

3. I have been trying to buy a modern V-clamp to fix the Downpipe to the turbo for years, I have already bought the wrong size twice, could you tell me which one to buy?

any advice on installation/various settings is welcome.

Thank you .

If you are relying on the GTEC2 chip with that turbo I would install a Wideband O2 gauge to keep an eye on open loop fuelling. They are not expensive, easy to install with a collar clamp and the sensor can be mounted vertical on the straight tube before the cat. Make sure to wire in a relay switched direct battery feed for the power supply so the sensor heater gets enough power.

regarding the gasket, it is correct that you should not fit one.

Cheers Jamie

They left the factory without a gasket.

Thanks Clanger,
yes an AFR tool is also on my to do list.

Thanks Jamie,
I will no longer be installing gaskets between the turbo and manifolds.

well,
I'm still waiting for some advice regarding the second and third questions.

I forgot,
I also received the oil loading/draining adapters in the kit, these must be screwed onto the heart of the turbo, do you recommend simply using Teflon tape?

Thank you.

Thanks Joe.

point 2 , I just nip them up, I've never torqued them

And no you shouldn't need to use PTFE tape for the banjo bolts

Cheers Jamie

Greetings.
That's what I meant by using Teflon tape.
In these two fittings, both for the oil, I also received a new steel pipe to connect the turbo to the engine,

now the doubt arises in my mind, perhaps this brass fitting goes into the engine block and the banjo on the turbo?

Does the standard oil bango bolt fit the thread of the new turbo?

Oil return will need PTFE tape on the fitting and sealant for the gasket.

I'll have to check Joe,
in case it should fit, do you recommend installing the new banjo side hose to the turbo with two new copper washers, and the small fitting with some Teflon to the engine block?

If the banjo does fit the new turbo I'd use the original oil feed pipe, I've known the inner tubes on those pipes collapse causing oil starvation.

thank you for the tip

Greetings.
Joe nothing to do, the original banjo won't fit, he will have to use the new tube and the new fitting.
How do you recommend screwing it onto the turbo without or with Teflon?

Can you tell me the size of the copper gaskets on the banjos of the turbo water lines? Are they 20x14x1.3?

Again... with this turbo I definitely won't be able to install the support bracket that holds the turbo attached to the engine, is this a bad thing?

Thank you

Missing the anchor bracket isn't a bad thing, just make sure the rear exhaust mount is secure the gearbox arm, you don't want any excess movement.

Have you kept the old copper crush washers for coolant and oil?

yes,
I have all the old washers,
I have some new ones but only for oil not water.
the oil ones are 12x18x1, I bought them a few years ago.

measuring the water ones with the caliper it comes out to 14x20x1.3 but I wanted your opinion.

I'm always thinking about how to fix the small fitting to the turbo.
Should PTFE resist up to around 300 degrees
do you have a tip for me?

and thanks for all the help.

PTFE tape is rated -450°F to +500°F so absolutely fine for the oil return fitting.

I'm talking about this Joe, oil inlet.

Does that adapted screw in all the way to the body of the turbo?

If it does use a crush washer and PTFE tape for belt and braces.

You could use Loctite 567 for the job. That should be plenty enough for sealing

I have loctite 510, I used it for the shells on the head as per the manual,
but I don't think it's ideal for this.
Thanks for the 567 advice

Greetings
I wanted to ask for advice.
As mentioned above by Clanger;
it would be better to install the instrument with the lambda probe (AEM afr x-series 30-0300) directly from the battery with a relay, I'm not that expert on the subject but what do you think about this, will it do the job? naturally connect it with a wire that generates the impulse by turning the key which in turn will energize the relay which will give direct current from the battery to the instrument.

thanks

https://www.ebay.de/itm/28125191714...r=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Yes That will do the job carmine.